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Corsets: From Status Symbol to Empowerment

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  Published in Politics and Government on Tuesday, February 10th 2026 at 11:16 GMT by Harper's Bazaar
      Locales: UNITED STATES, FRANCE

From Elite Signifier to Early Structure (16th-17th Centuries) The origins of the corset aren't what many might assume. Far from immediately being about achieving an impossibly small waist, early forms of corsetry in the 16th and 17th centuries functioned primarily as status symbols. These weren't the heavily boned, waist-cinching devices of the Victorian era. Instead, they were constructed from layers of fabric, often reinforced with materials like whalebone, and were incredibly expensive to produce. Only women of considerable wealth could afford them, and their presence immediately signaled high social standing.

Furthermore, these early corsets offered a level of control over silhouette previously unseen. Medieval clothing tended to be loose and flowing. The emerging structured shapes offered by early corsets - conical bodices, for example - allowed for a deliberate presentation of the body. Historians now suggest this control wasn't necessarily oppressive, but rather a method for women to assert agency over their appearance within the existing social framework. They could dictate, to some extent, how they were seen, in a period where female visibility was otherwise limited. This controlled presentation could be viewed as a precursor to modern fashion choices, where clothing is used to curate an identity.

The Victorian Paradox: Restraint and Respectability (19th Century) The 19th century, and especially the Victorian era, witnessed a significant turning point. As societal ideals surrounding femininity became increasingly codified and focused on ideals of delicate weakness and domesticity, the corset transformed into a tool for enforcing these norms. The 'hourglass' figure - a tiny waist dramatically contrasted with full hips and bust - became the epitome of respectability and virtue. Corsets were aggressively tightened, often with the assistance of maids, to achieve this desired shape.

However, this pursuit of the 'ideal' came at a significant cost. The extreme compression of the torso caused a plethora of health problems, including breathing difficulties, digestive issues, reduced organ function, and even skeletal deformities. The corset became synonymous with physical discomfort and the subjugation of women's bodies. Stories abound of fainting spells, broken ribs, and long-term health damage resulting from relentless lacing. This era cemented the corset's negative reputation, and fueled early feminist critiques of fashion as a means of control. The discomfort wasn't merely physical; it represented a metaphorical constriction of opportunities and freedoms for women.

The 20th Century: Rebellion, Redefinition, and Modern Adaptations The 20th century saw a gradual rejection of the Victorian corset. The loosening of social mores, coupled with the rise of feminism, led to a desire for greater comfort and freedom of movement. The flapper dresses of the 1920s actively eschewed corsetry, embracing a more androgynous and liberated silhouette.

However, the corset didn't disappear entirely. It underwent a significant reinterpretation, largely thanks to designers who consciously sought to reclaim the garment. Vivienne Westwood is a prime example, incorporating corsets into her punk and new wave designs. Westwood's corsets weren't about achieving the Victorian hourglass; they were about challenging conventions, celebrating the body, and making a bold fashion statement.

Today, the corset exists in various forms, ranging from historically accurate reproductions for costuming and niche fashion to modern interpretations that prioritize comfort and functionality. Modern corsets often utilize flexible boning, breathable fabrics, and adjustable lacing to provide support and shape without the extreme constriction of the past. They are worn as outerwear, incorporated into bridal gowns, or used as shapewear. The garment has transcended its restrictive past to become a symbol of body positivity, self-expression, and empowered femininity. The continued popularity of corset-inspired designs speaks to a desire for structured silhouettes without the historical baggage of oppression. It's a testament to the enduring appeal of a garment that, despite its complicated past, continues to capture the imagination.